BEST DIVE SITES IN THE KEYS

Silent World dives the spectacular coral reefs offshore Key Largo. This area is called the Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary and John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Three important navigational lights stand as sentinels beckoning to those who seek the adventure of the underwater world. To the north is the 112 foot tall Carysfort Light, named for a British ship that grounded there in 1770. This lighthouse, the first lighthouse constructed in the Keys, replaced a lightship in 1852 and now it is the oldest still-functioning lighthouse in the United States. Containing a complete home, work area and cistern, it was manned full-time, but the crew was sent home when it was automated in the 1930s. The Elbow Reef Light is roughly in the middle of the Sanctuary and marks a distinct bend or elbow, in the reef-line. At the southern end of the Sanctuary is Molasses Reef Light. Throughout the Sanctuary and Park are scores of fascinating and varied dives. All photographs on this page are copyright Sonya Tittle and were taken in the Sanctuary in September 2007. CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO ON FLORIDA KEYS DIVING AND SCUBA DIVING IN KEY LARGO

KEY LARGO SITES - CARYSFORT REEF DOWN TO THE WRECKS OF THE DUANE AND THE BIBB

All these sites are in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary (Pennekamp Park is within the sanctuary boundaries) Most sites are within 'SPA's" (Sanctuary Preservation Areas) where the coral and marine life are superior.

KEY LARGO DRY ROCKS or the STATUE (photo) (4 - 30') The world famous "Christ of the Abyss" Statue was donated to the Underwater Society of America by the European Underwater Society. Italian diving equipment manufacturer, Egidio Cressi (of Cressi-Sub) was one of the contributors. The solid bronze statue was placed in the park in 1965. The Christ Statue is one of the most famous of the Florida National Marine Sanctuary's attractions. It is a 9 foot tall bronze duplicate of the Christ of the Abysses statue which stands in 50 feet of water off Genoa, Italy. The statue is easily accessible to both divers and snorkelers. It lies in an area of spectacular coral formations directly in front of the shallow reefs of Key Largo Dry Rocks.

MINNOW CAVES (15 - 25') Coral arches and swim through tunnels are characteristics of this beautiful reef dive. During the summer season clouds of tiny silver minnows crowd these sheltered places, making this a favorite dive for underwater photographers.

MIKE'S WRECK (20 - 30') The origin of this low profile wreck of a metal hulled ship located one hundred yards directly East of the Elbow Reef Light is unknown. Some local dive captains claim this wreck to once have been the 300 ft. steam freighter TONAWANDA, lost in 1866. The TONAWANDA was originally built in 1863, purchased by the United States Navy, immediately renamed the ARKANSAS and pressed into service blockading Confederate ports on the Gulf of Mexico. This was the first U.S. vessel named ARKANSAS, no relationship to the Confederate ironclad CSS ARKANSAS. Click for more complete history of the TONAWANDA. The problem with claiming MIKE'S WRECK is the TONAWANDA is that the TONAWANDA was originally a wooden vessel. It is possible that this wreck is originally part of what is locally called either the "Train Wheel Wreck" or the "Tug and Barge," or possibly a completely unrelated, unknown wreck, and most probably the TONAWANDA is actually situated about a hundred yards Northeast of the tower. This smaller, unmarked, rarely dived wreck is known locally as the Civil War Wreck, which also makes sense. The Civil War Wreck has little remaining, only a framework of pipe fittings and other metallic debris about 40 feet long by fifteen feet wide, pretty much what you would expect to remain from a steam powered, wooden vessel after the wood had disintegrated. MIKE'S WRECK is now broken into two large pieces and many smaller pieces, scattered over a large area, providing a haven for a variety of sea creatures. A school of midnight parrot fish cruise the wreck along with moray eels and lobster. *Newsflash* Mike Barnette, Director of the Association of Underwater Explorers has identified the Wreck as the Acorn. More info to follow.

CITY OF WASHINGTON (20 - 30') Just offshore of the Elbow reef lies the remains of the "City of Washington", a schooner lost here in 1917. This wreck is known for exceptionally clear waters and an abundance of friendly fish populations. Several friendly green morays, barracuda and grouper patrol. The scattered wreckage provides an excellent backdrop for underwater photography. Click for more complete history. or Click for diagram.

FINGERS (10 - 30') Southeast of the Elbow, a spur and groove formation features coral ridges topped by giant elkhorn corals. The outstretched arms of these shallow coral colonies provide habitat for schooling grunts and other tropical fish. A large school of blue tangs can usually be seen along with an awesome specimen of Elkhorn. Species normally found in the Bahamas are abundant here, making this another photographers favorite.

SOUTH LEDGES (15 - 30') This reef area, part of the Elbow reef, is known for it's clear water and spectacular coral. A spur and groove formation provides shelter for many large species of fish. Turtles, spotted eagle rays and sometimes tarpon are seen often.

ANCHOR CHAIN (25 - 30') lying across the reef near the mooring ball, an abandoned anchor chain with huge links and concrete mooring block, thought to be that of the original lightship at the Elbow reef can be found here in 25 feet of water. Good visibility and unlimited fish and coral make this a favorite site among divers.

TRAIN WHEEL WRECK (or TUG AND BARGE)(20 - 30') Another area of wreckage at the Elbow. A tug and barge went aground in the 20s, dumping train track and wheels onto the reef. Little remains of the wrecks but the wheels. Huge formations of Elkhorn coral shelter schools of Goatfish, Snappers, and Porkfish. Colorful tropical fish are plentiful.

BENWOOD (25 - 45') The wreck of the BENWOOD, a 344' Norwegian freighter lies north of French Reef. Near midnight on April 9, 1942, sailing with no lights because of the danger from German submarines, the Benwood was accidentally rammed by a larger American vessel, the 450 foot Robert C. Tuttle. The captain, thinking the Benwood may sink, turned toward shore and shallow water. She went aground at the stern with her bow swung out to sea. Then, according to local legend, as her crew struggled with a fire on deck, a German submarine prowling the coastline sighted her easily at night and finished her with it's deck gun. It's a great story, but there is no evidence in U.S. or German records of any U-Boat involvement, but the legend dies hard. It's hull now lies in a barren section of the reef-line in less than 50 feet of water. Huge grouper are now permanent residents of this wreck, which makes a magnificent backdrop for underwater photography. This is the nicest shallow wreck in the Sanctuary and a great dive.

Click for a more complete history of the Benwood
Photo of the Benwood while afloat.
Photo of the Benwood just after sinking This photo has been identified elsewhere as the Benwood, but it is almost certainly the Gulfamerica, sunk seven days later by U-123 off Jacksonville, Florida.
Photo of the Benwood today.

FRENCH REEF (25 - 40') French Reef, one of the most popular reef systems in the park, provides a dramatic maze of underwater canyons, cliffs, and gullies. It's coral arches and swim through caves provide shelter for many large fish with grouper and green morays are a common sight. SAND BOTTOM CAVE is one of our favorites on FRENCH REEF. It has one large entrance shoreward of F5 buoy and two small exits. There is usually a large predator, like barracuda or grouper, in the cave.

NORTH LEDGES REEF (25 - 45') This Elbow reef dive site boasts many of the parks most beautiful Gorgonians (soft corals). Angelfish, Jacks and large rays frequent this beautiful reef. In 1989, the North Ledges was the victim of a heavy grounding by the Elpis, a 450 ft. Greek freighter, suffering destruction of about half of the dive site. The NORTH LEDGES no longer has permanent Park moorings and is rarely, if ever, dived. S. SOUTH LEDGES (25 - 35') Towering coral ridges mark this spur and groove reef area. Staghorn, Elkhorn, and Star corals provide shelter for a colorful array of marine life. Turtles, spotted eagle rays and sometimes tarpon are seen often.

LITTLE GRECIAN (10 - 25') A sheltered inner reef, Little Grecian is a perfect choice for both snorkelers and divers. With it's coral heads towering to within a few feet of the surface, snorkelers can have a close-up view of the marine life of our reefs.

N. NORTH DRY ROCKS (20 - 30') Another sheltered reef, N. N. Dry Rocks is a perfect location to view shallow water corals and brilliantly colored tropical fish. A favorite of underwater macro-photographers

.CARYSFORT REEF and CARYSFORT LEDGE (25 - 75') The northernmost major reef system in the sanctuary, Carysfort is one of the largest, having acres and acres of shallow reef and also a steep drop-off to 75 ft. called the "Ledge." Carysfort Ledge is a sloping wall dive of fascinating coral formations. Elkhorn, and Staghorn corals give was to Brain and Sheet corals as the reef descends to a sandy bottom 65- 75 ft. deep. Snorkelers may swim toward the lighthouse tower over acres of shallow Elkhorn gardens.

SOUTH CARYSFORT (15 - 25') A shallow second dive done after Carysfort proper, South Carysfort is one of the most striking Elkhorn gardens in the sanctuary. Coral heads rise within a few feet of the surface, while winding sand bottomed canyons provide shelter for hundreds of tropical fish.

GRECIAN ROCKS (10 - 25') One of the more sheltered reefs of our park, the shallow areas of this reef are popular with snorkelers, whilst the divers head for the Eastern reef line. Abundant in Angelfish, Snappers, and Tangs, there is also a rather skittish Bull shark resident on the South end of the reef . Divers will enjoy finding the old Spanish cannon almost hidden inside a cluster of brain coral found on the shoreside of the reef. Diagram of Grecian Rocks

MOLASSES REEF (10 - 40') Molasses Reef is one of the most popular reef in the Upper Keys due to its close proximity to the majority of dive shops that operate from the South end of the island. The classic outer reef has a well-defined spur and groove system of coral development. Strong currents can be a problem here at times.

BANANA REEF (10' - 25') Stunning banana shaped inner reef, noteworthy for its abundant brain corals and schooling yellowtail and sergeant majors. Coral growth here is prolific and very healthy, with small patch reefs being interspersed with large grass beds along its outer edge.

HORSESHOE REEF (10' - 25') is a beautiful, barely dived reef close to Key Largo Dry Rocks. As the reef is on the inside and closer to shore than its neighbors, seas are often lighter here. Large boulders of star coral are accompanied by smaller brain corals while elkhorn dominates the back side of the reef. Crevices in the reef reveal schooling silversides, feeding jacks, snappers, grunts, wrasses, and parrotfish.

THE SPIEGEL GROVE, LSD 32 (50'-135'). The Spiegel Grove was sunk June 10, 2002 amidst a media fanfare the like of which Key Largo may never see again. While trying to sink the 510' vessel in a controlled manner in order to have it sit upright on the bottom, she flipped upside down with her stern on the bottom and her bow still afloat. There was just enough time for the workers who were trying to finalize the sinking preparations to get off the ship. The reality was that the vessel would sink upside down if nothing were done, making it a poor dive or even undiveable for most divers. The Key Largo community came together and funded a marine salvage company to pull the vessel on it's side where it remained for two years until miraculously, hurricane Dennis late in 2005 pushed it into an upright position. There are already schools of baitfish, barracudas, jacks and some large grouper on the wreck. Although not a dive for beginners, mainly due to potential current, there is plenty to see in the 50-70 foot range. The ship is so massive, you could do dozens of dives on it without seeing the same things twice. Spiegel Grove photo

THE U.S. COAST GUARD CUTTER DUANE (100 - 130'). The Duane is a deep, artificial reef ship intentionally sunk in November, 1987. This 329' military vessel sits upright in 130' of water. There are 42 rooms in the four decks of the super structure, some with furniture and fixtures still intact. Originally, all doors and hatchways had been either removed or welded open to provide safe access to divers, but in the ensuing years, openings have been found and there is access to the interior of the ship. Divers have died in the interior of the ship. Situated on the edge of the Gulf stream, there is usually a current present, sometimes very strong, but the wreck is bathed in warm clear water with visibility often exceeding 100 feet. Advanced certification or deep diving experience will be required.
She was initially commissioned as William Jim. Duane in 1936. Her name was shortened to simply "Duane" in mid-1937. Duane was converted to an Amphibious Force Flagship in 1944. Upon completion, she was to have been taken over by the Navy and assigned the hull number AGC-6. However, this plan was dropped and she was retained for Coast Guard service. Duane left Coast Guard service on 1 August 1985 and was laid up in Boston for a number of years.
The cutter was deliberately sunk in 1987 to create an artificial reef. It is located a mile south of Molasses Reef. On May 16, 2002, it was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

THE U.S. COAST GUARD CUTTER BIBB (105 - 130')
Originally intended to be sunk right next to the Duane as part of a single dive experience, the Bibb ended up on her starboard side a bit further away than intended. Rarely visited by divers (and never by some dive operations) due to a slightly deeper profile than the Duane, and less chance to hide from current; this excellent dive is on our regular weekly schedule.
The USCGC Bibb (WPG-31) was a 327-foot (100 m) Secretary-Class (also known as "Treasury Class") Coast Guard ship commissioned in 1936. Seven similar "combat cutters" were built and named for secretaries of the United States Treasury. The legendary Bibb was named for U.S. Secretary of the Treasury (July 4, 1844 – March 7, 1845) George M. Bibb.
The ship saw service in World War II. The ship fought in the Battle of the Atlantic serving as a convoy escort. In February 1943, the convoy came under attack and the SS Henry R. Mallory was torpedoed. Capt. Raney ignored the order to leave the survivors and went back and rescued 202 men from the icy waters. In 1944 Bibb provided convoy escort between the United States and North Africa — mainly to Bizerte in Tunisia. In January 1945 Bibb left Charleston, South Carolina for service in the Pacific theater where, as an AGC, she served temporarily as the home for Commander, Minecraft, Pacific Fleet. Bibb is credited with destroying one Japanese kamikaze aircraft in action at Karema Retto.
In peacetime the Bibb spent time on ocean station providing weather information and beacons to trans-Atlantic traffic. While on ocean station, the Bibb came to the rescue of the airliner, the Bermuda Sky Queen. In the Vietnam War, the Bibb transported John Kerry after he was shot on his Swift boat. It was decommissioned in 1985 and remained docked until it was transported to the Florida Keys for use as an artificial reef. The ship was sunk in November 1987 just outside the coral reef tract, about six miles (10 km) offshore of the island of Key Largo. It lies on its side at a depth of about 130 feet (40 m). Nearby, a second Treasury-Class ship, the USCGC Duane (WPG-33) was also sunk as an artificial reef.
The Bibb rests at 24°59.71′N 80°22.77′W

THE NORTHERN LIGHT (150 - 195')
The Northern Light was a Great Lakes steam freighter built in 1888. It was 300’ in length with a 40’ beam. The Northern Light is also somewhat unique in that it used a three-phase steam engine that produced 240 horsepower. These engines were developed near the end of the steam era. In 1927, the owner attempted to commit insurance fraud by setting fire to the ship, badly damaging it. It was then cut down and converted into a barge. In 1930, the Northern Light broke into two parts during a terrible storm and sank off Elbow reef, Key Largo with the loss of 5 lives. Check out our Northern Light Page! or Click Here for our Technical Diving Page!